This blog is about the behind-the-scenes aspect of the hobby. The process that makes it happen, tips, tutorials, memorable quotes, and the little moments that make it all worthwhile. Brought to you by mods (Xaynie & ElfGrove) and our cosplaying cohorts.
Thank you! We’re happy to be of help where we can!
I presume since you specifically mention “black around the eyes” you’re referring mostly to using eyeliner.
Tip #1: Well, the first thing to know is not all eye make up is created equal. Different brands are different quality and have better or worse staying power and smudge-resistance on your skin. Cost isn’t always a guarantee of quality either, because some brands will behave differently for you due to your skin type and application methods. So, try some different brands. It may make all the difference.
Tip #2: I, personally, have a major tendency to rub around my eyes when tired, frustrated, or just as a form of fidgeting. I realized this only when I started doing heavier eye make up for cosplay, and realized I was smudging my own make up. When wearing heavier make up it is important to be conscious of breaking these sort of physical ticks because even really good make up can only hold up to so much abuse, it is intended to be able come off at some point.
Tip #3: Using a Primer before make up application is a really worthwhile step. Primer helps moisturize skin and prevent it from getting oily; this allows make up to go on smoother and stay longer. There are primers designed for general face application and some specially designed for going under eye shadow if you need extra help.
Tip #4: Set the eyeliner with powder. An eye shadow applied with a detail brush in the same color as your eyeliner will add vibrancy and act as a setting powder.
Tip #5: A clear make up sealer can be applied as a final line of defense.
Between all of these, one or more should solve your problem. Good luck!
That should work out fine! Both are blonde, and given similar enough hair styles that the same wig should work for both.
Just use bobby pins, hair ties, and hair spray to adjust for each look. I would recommend taking the side tail down and brushing (with a wig shine or wig detangler spray) the wig out as soon as it’s done being Lucy so that the wig fibers don’t develop kinks where the hair tie is.
Here are some air-dry clays we’ve worked with or looked into and advantages/disadvantages to each:
Model Magic - We’ve worked with MM quite a lot from building props wholesale, to adding details to larger props we needed to stay lightweight, to just creating a smooth final surface on a rough larger project (over celluclay and foam and even on top of fiberglass and plastic). ElfGrove even used it to fabricate gems (pre-learning resin casting) on her Clef staff. It’s a go-to material at Project Cosplay. Read our tutorial for working with Model Magic here. Alternatively, because it is a more porous air-dry clay, the larger and more loosely packed it is, the more prone the final product is to be potentially slightly “squishy” after drying. So pack the Model Magic tightly and form it over a base of another material (even just dowel rods) for larger constructions. — Recommended for finishing and details on large props, doing most of the work on small props that need to be lightweight and durable, or creating smaller items from scratch. Not Recommended for large prop items without a base form made from something solid.
Activia CelluClay - A strong and light weight sort of instant papier mache. You just add water and start making forms. The instructions call for set amounts of water, but we usually add more or less water based on what we’re doing. More water means a smoother dried surface, but it’s also more runny and may drip if you use too much (in that case, just add more celluclay to the mix). Although we usually form it over a base of some sort (with plastic wrap inbetween the clay and the base so it can be removed from the base), it can also be sculpted free-form to a degree. When drying, Celluclay becomes almost concrete hard and significantly more light weight. It also tends to shrink a little if it’s not over a solid, non-flexible base (this is important to keep in mind if you are making armor or helmets with it). It will usually take a few days to dry thoroughly. The dried surface is usually uneven and bumpy and can be wet-sanded. We’ve found it is easier to do a thin layer of Model Magic over the finished Celluclay to create a smooth final surface than wet-sanding. Recommended for large props that need to be both lightweight and durable.
Creative Paper Clay - I’ve never actually used this, but my understanding is that it is a more expensive, lighter alternative to CelluClay and will have a smoother initial surface.
Activa La Doll Premier Air Dry Clay - Advertised as non-crumbling, non-stick formula, it was a disappointing experiment. Maybe I got a bad batch, but it did exactly as advertised it would not do. I couldn’t get it to smooth out and it was crumbly and would not stick to itself to create smooth finishes. After the bad experience and the price difference not being that great, I haven’t spent to money to try the cheaper alternative Model Air. — Not Recommended for any project.
Drying times for any of these vary based on the size and depth of the clay application as well as local weather. In the height of a dry summer I’ve had things left in direct sunlight set in under 24 hours, but it’s also taken as long as a week for larger things in a more humid environment to dry all the way through.
Sculpey - Not actually an air-dry clay. If you are creating small trinkets or jewelry, it might be worthwhile to make it out of Sculpey, this is a baking clay, but once formed, only needs 15 minutes in a standard oven per 1/4 inch thick. Recommended for small detail props and jewelry. Not Recommended for medium to large props or things that are likely to be subject to a lot of stress.
Hello there! This blog is run by ElfGrove and myself, Xaynie, who was the Sailor Mars with the cool bow. Thanks for the compliment!
As for what I made the bow out of, I used 4 layers of clear rigid vinyl and then layered cut out pieces of red, amber, and yellow lighting gels. I would recommend using eBay as lighting gels are not cheap (~$9 per sheet). I considered cellophane but it gets very wrinkly very quickly so I opted out of using it. I needed something that was transparent so you can see through it like fire. I didn’t take a picture (which I wish I did) of how it looked like on the floor- my shadow was black but my bow was colored! It was very neat.
I definitely think the lighting gels will work for you too if that’s the effect you are going for.