Project Cosplay

Project Cosplay

This blog is about the behind-the-scenes aspect of the hobby. The process that makes it happen, tips, tutorials, memorable quotes, and the little moments that make it all worthwhile. Brought to you by mods (Xaynie & ElfGrove) and our cosplaying cohorts.

Common Tags

These were made with mirror vinyl (bought from a Chinese seller) over craft foam held together with various glues.

This is the process / tutorial used.

Use the following chart when adhering materials so they stick well:

  • Vinyl front to vinyl front: Super Glue / Krazy Glue
  • Foam to vinyl front: Coat the foam in a very thin layer of hot glue, let it dry, then use Super Glue / Krazy Glue
  • Foam to vinyl backing: Contact Cement / Contact Spray
  • Foam to foam: Hot Glue (or your favorite method…this is my preferred)

Others have used contact cement to hold the foam to the vinyl backing but because contact cement smells like death to me, I prefer the contact spray adhesive instead.

Really love using this method as it’s fast, easy, and light. Luckily, my armor did not have any complex curves because if it did, I would have used Worbla instead.



If you liked this tutorial, pleas check out my Facebook page for more of my work!

Larger Size avaliable on my Deviantart 

Just an addition: If you don’t have any beeswax around, a dryer sheet does the same job of stopping your thread from tangling so much! :) I have one stashed in my sewing box, you can use it over and over again!

(via peppers-pray)


How I made scale mail out of faux leather, in case anyone finds this useful.  I used the same method for Morrigan’s camisole except that one I sewed instead of stapled.

Instructions are in the captions.

Asker trimizu Asks:
the trim on that uniform is flawless omg is it okay if i ask how you did it?
projectcosplay projectcosplay Said:


YES OF COURSE MY SON ill publish this ask because it might be useful for others

so here’s the thing with said trim


i would have used bias tape as usual for this, except for two things: it’s meant to be seamless-looking and metallic, neither of which you can accomplish with bias tape. SO WHAT DID I DO

this is going to sound completely crazy but it’s heat n bonded pleather vinyl. ‘why would you use heat n bond on vinyl??? are u insane??? wouldnt it melt???? did you wreck your iron???? did you burn yourself?????’ the answer to all of those questions except the last one is no.



heat n bond ultrahold (that’s the one in the red pack) (you can also buy it by the metre at most fabric stores i’ve been to so buy as much as you need for whatever trim you’re putting on?)


your pleather/vinyl - the softer the better. if it has a suede or polyester backing then we’re in business

and that’s all you need aside from an iron

read the heat  n bond instructions then figure out how much trim you want. i had to cut some angular shapes so i just cut a huge square about 1.5 feet x 1.5 feet from my pleather. i cut the same amount from the heat n bond, then i ironed it on. iron it on smooth!!! then let it cool.

heat n bond has a paper backing so you can use a pencil to trace whatever shapes you need onto it. in my case it was straight lines and angles, so it was easy, but if you’re doing something more specific, remember that you have to sketch it on backwards so it shows the right way when you iron it on.

cut your shapes out and peel the backing off of them. you should have a lot of leftover. keep the leftover big chunks of paper lining. you need them!!!

line up your shapes or trims wherever they need to go. put your iron at about a medium setting, though you should test the whole thing on scrap fabric first because everyone’s iron is different.

don’t just smack your iron down because if you do you’ll melt your pleather onto your iron and all over your fabric and you’ll cry. this is where the leftover paper lining comes in handy. put it shiny side down on  top of your vinyl, then iron over the paper. you shouldn’t need to hold it down for more than a few seconds, but do it firmly and in strokes. peel the paper off right away, then wait for it to cool and test to see if it’s affixed. if it’s not, no problem- iron over it again.

the nice side effect of the ironing is that it takes the pleather from a slightly textured, leathery finish to a perfectly sleek shiny smooth one. and then you have magical metallic trims with no visible seams!!!! we all win.


Costuming: the search for balance between accuracy, expediency, originality, expense, comfort, elegance and oh god the con is in a week where is the hot glue


Sailor Fuku Cosplay Tutorial by ~SparklePipsi

An amazing tutorial on how to make your very own Sailor Senshi/Fuku Cosplay! Had a hard time finding really descriptive youtube tutorials surprisingly. So had to find step by step images! 

If you still need to visually see how to make a pleaded skirt here’s a youtube link to How To Cosplay: Make A Pleated Skirt! Though she doesn’t use actually cloth in the tutorial she uses paper - I think it’s pretty useful. 

In celebration of Sailor Moon Crystal, we know there will be many Moonie cosplayers out there who will need this. This is one of the most comprehensive tutorial to date. Good luck everyone!

(via cosplayresearch)


Punished Props has a really good article about shop safety up on his blog. Not every cosplayer has a shop, but this is a good reminder to always be safe. If you’re going to be working with materials like resin or bondo, work in a well-ventilated area and wear an air respirator. Make sure you use your tools properly (keep your blades sharp and clean and know when it’s time to replace worn tools).

Safety is paramount.

(via tawnyscostumesandcuriosities)


I’m a cast member (employee) at one of the US Disney Parks. Every year when the local anime conventions come into town we have a problem. Cosplayers love to come to the park and try to cosplay in the park.

(Except at certain parks halloween parties)

For whatever reason, there are cosplayers who think it’s some kind of badge of honor to get asked to leave. Or, they will pitch a fit and try to get reAds or merch from us for “interrupting their fun.”

Cosplayers have become slick about this. They know they will be turned away at the gate, so they will change in a washroom.

Do you understand WHY we can’t allow this?
Intellectual property is one reason. The other? Little kids may not be able to tell that you’re not the real Belle. And what if you’re some creepy who gets off on little kids who decided to dress up as Gaston? And kids are following you around???

Please, get the word out!

Stop coming to the park in costume. Stop bringing your costumes into the park. You may think its awesome that people can’t tell you’re not a Disney employee but it makes it harder on those of us who work there!

And our managers have started arresting people for this!  No more comps or reads or “oh, sorry I didn’t know.”

If it is not a park sanctioned special event and you are over 10, do not go to Disney in costume. Even if the costume is not a Disney one. Kids do not differentiate brands that well. Heck, there are plenty of adults who would not realize it’s not some sort of special crossover event. There are official days that permit costumes like Star Wars Day, the Halloween Party, etc (check with your destination park), take advantage of those without breaking the rules.

No ifs, ands, or buts about it. Just do not.

Go to Disney. Have fun. Leave the cosplay outside the gates.

Disney parks are private property, they have the right to deny you access/service. While park staff cannot “arrest” you, they can have law enforcement forcibly remove you for trespassing and being a nuisance if you make an issue of it, especially when you’re in the wrong to start with. Here are their officially posted recommended dress code for Disney parks: [link] Note the “common sense” part.

(via elfgrove)


Most of my wigs require trimming and shaping of some kind. I hang onto the clipping to make curls/ahoge. I don’t like using a lot of product to get the ahoge look and find this method is a good alternative. As you can see in the photos the glue at the base of the curl is never visible. It is also super easy to take out if you need to use your wig for a costume that doesn’t require a curl.

Note: the curl used to make this tutorial is slightly larger then the one used in both the cosplay pictures and the finale picture. This was so it showed up better in the photos. 

(via youcancosplay21)


Bart Fatima — Xenogears (1998)

Cosplayer: ElfGrove []
Photographer: Jru
Convention: FanimeCon 2014

Xaynie and ElfGrove just returned from FanimeCon in San Jose, Caliornia, and we’re in the process of gearing up for Anime Expo in Los Angeles. Expect some new posts soon, including one on proper Hotel Guest etiquette and a couple of tips for being in a convention hotel.

In the meantime, Elf just finished a costume she’s been meaning to do for years just in time for Fanime, so please enjoy the photos of the finished work taken by our friend and cosplaying partner, Jru.