Project Cosplay

Project Cosplay

This blog is about the behind-the-scenes aspect of the hobby. The process that makes it happen, tips, tutorials, memorable quotes, and the little moments that make it all worthwhile. Brought to you by mods (Xaynie & ElfGrove) and our cosplaying cohorts.

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Sailor Fuku Cosplay Tutorial by ~SparklePipsi

An amazing tutorial on how to make your very own Sailor Senshi/Fuku Cosplay! Had a hard time finding really descriptive youtube tutorials surprisingly. So had to find step by step images! 

If you still need to visually see how to make a pleaded skirt here’s a youtube link to How To Cosplay: Make A Pleated Skirt! Though she doesn’t use actually cloth in the tutorial she uses paper - I think it’s pretty useful. 

In celebration of Sailor Moon Crystal, we know there will be many Moonie cosplayers out there who will need this. This is one of the most comprehensive tutorial to date. Good luck everyone!

(via cosplayresearch)


Punished Props has a really good article about shop safety up on his blog. Not every cosplayer has a shop, but this is a good reminder to always be safe. If you’re going to be working with materials like resin or bondo, work in a well-ventilated area and wear an air respirator. Make sure you use your tools properly (keep your blades sharp and clean and know when it’s time to replace worn tools).

Safety is paramount.

(via tawnyscostumesandcuriosities)


I’m a cast member (employee) at one of the US Disney Parks. Every year when the local anime conventions come into town we have a problem. Cosplayers love to come to the park and try to cosplay in the park.

(Except at certain parks halloween parties)

For whatever reason, there are cosplayers who think it’s some kind of badge of honor to get asked to leave. Or, they will pitch a fit and try to get reAds or merch from us for “interrupting their fun.”

Cosplayers have become slick about this. They know they will be turned away at the gate, so they will change in a washroom.

Do you understand WHY we can’t allow this?
Intellectual property is one reason. The other? Little kids may not be able to tell that you’re not the real Belle. And what if you’re some creepy who gets off on little kids who decided to dress up as Gaston? And kids are following you around???

Please, get the word out!

Stop coming to the park in costume. Stop bringing your costumes into the park. You may think its awesome that people can’t tell you’re not a Disney employee but it makes it harder on those of us who work there!

And our managers have started arresting people for this!  No more comps or reads or “oh, sorry I didn’t know.”

If it is not a park sanctioned special event and you are over 10, do not go to Disney in costume. Even if the costume is not a Disney one. Kids do not differentiate brands that well. Heck, there are plenty of adults who would not realize it’s not some sort of special crossover event. There are official days that permit costumes like Star Wars Day, the Halloween Party, etc (check with your destination park), take advantage of those without breaking the rules.

No ifs, ands, or buts about it. Just do not.

Go to Disney. Have fun. Leave the cosplay outside the gates.

Disney parks are private property, they have the right to deny you access/service. While park staff cannot “arrest” you, they can have law enforcement forcibly remove you for trespassing and being a nuisance if you make an issue of it, especially when you’re in the wrong to start with. Here are their officially posted recommended dress code for Disney parks: [link] Note the “common sense” part.

(via elfgrove)


Most of my wigs require trimming and shaping of some kind. I hang onto the clipping to make curls/ahoge. I don’t like using a lot of product to get the ahoge look and find this method is a good alternative. As you can see in the photos the glue at the base of the curl is never visible. It is also super easy to take out if you need to use your wig for a costume that doesn’t require a curl.

Note: the curl used to make this tutorial is slightly larger then the one used in both the cosplay pictures and the finale picture. This was so it showed up better in the photos. 

(via youcancosplay21)


Bart Fatima — Xenogears (1998)

Cosplayer: ElfGrove []
Photographer: Jru
Convention: FanimeCon 2014

Xaynie and ElfGrove just returned from FanimeCon in San Jose, Caliornia, and we’re in the process of gearing up for Anime Expo in Los Angeles. Expect some new posts soon, including one on proper Hotel Guest etiquette and a couple of tips for being in a convention hotel.

In the meantime, Elf just finished a costume she’s been meaning to do for years just in time for Fanime, so please enjoy the photos of the finished work taken by our friend and cosplaying partner, Jru.


Ever have trouble finding boots in the right color? Tried spray-painting them and ended up with a dry, cracked mess?

A fantastic friend recently advised me to paint leather boots (and any other leather goods) with floral paint. This is a spray paint that is light and flexible enough to use on live flowers. Above are the Poison Ivy boots I painted for a friend, which turned out fantastic.

One thing though: Wear them while you paint them, and maybe stretch your foot around in between coats. I didn’t think of this, and while the paint did not crack at all, it started to split where the boots were stretched from walking. Next time I paint some boots, I’ll let you know if I was able to fix this problem.

The paint I used is called Design Master, and you can find it at Michael’s or Joann Fabrics. In the stores near me, Michael’s had a better selection of colors and a slightly better price, but that may not be true everywhere. This color is “Holiday Green.”

Great job motherofcosplay! We’ve mentioned it before in our Cosplay Tip #002: Use Floral Spray for Shoe Dying. This is an example of what it looks like using this method- it turned out fantastic, don’t you think?



Just read cosplay instructions that involved more steps of sanding, filling, sanding, and painting than a museum quality body off, frame auto restoration. O_o

True story: I was recommended tools and taught the proper use of said tools by a cosplayer.

That shit is hardcore, man.


I’ve had a lot of people ask me about the Worbla smoothing process I used on the King Loki build. To simplify explaining things I created this handy infographic. This is just one of many ways to achieve super smooth Worbla. After a lot of testing this is the process I came up with to satisfy my goal for the project. For average builds it’s probably too much work but I hope it may be helpful to some. - coregeek

Another way to smooth Worbla! Thanks for the submission, coregeeknet!

As a follow up to our Making Worbla Smooth Experiment, here is the detailed write-up regarding the methods used in that experiment.

Making Worbla Smooth

There are many methods for making Worbla smooth so I decided to do a test run myself based on the primary methods others have used. The three main ways of covering Worbla have been using Gesso, Plasti-Dip, or Wood Glue. This experiment only covers Gesso with Mod Podge acrylic sealer or Gesso with Plasti-dip. I didn’t have Wood Glue available during the time of conducting the test so there will be another part to this series that will include a comparison using Wood Glue.


I used 8 layers of Golden Sandable Hard Gesso and 150 Grit Sandpaper. I prefer this Gesso over any clear Gesso as you can actually see the streaks so that when you sand it, you can see the Worbla getting smoother (pictures 3 & 4).  In addition, the sandable Gesso has additives that makes it thicker so that you don’t have to do as many layers or as much sanding to make it look good. Yay for that!

You’ll notice I didn’t do a good enough job of sanding so you can still see some streaks in the forth image. If I were to do this again, I would do 6 layers, sand with 150 grit, and then add another 4 layers, then sand again with 150 grit to get a smoother finish (instead of just 8 layers straight). I tried sanding only 4 layers in and unfortunately, I exposed the Worbla, so 6 layers of Gesso is the very minimum in guarding against Worbla exposure. Also, it’s very important that each layer of Gesso dries completely before you put on the next. Otherwise, if you start sanding, the Gesso will chip and take, along with it, all the layers underneath. In picture 4, you will notice this happened on the edges of the Gesso which is why the Worbla is exposed there.


Picture one (left) shows the top piece which is Worbla painted without any additional work. The bottom piece is 8 layers of Gesso, sandpaper, one layer of Mod Podge acrylic sealant, and then one layer of Gold Metallic Paint.

Picture two (right) shows the top piece which is Worbla painted without any additional work. The bottom piece shows Worbla with 8 layers of Gesso, sandpaper, 2 layers of Plasti-Dip, and one layer of Gold Metallic Paint (Rustoleum brand).

Conclusion: I was surprised that the piece with the Mod Podge sealant looks smoother than the one with the Plasti-dip! I think the Plasti-dip made the items look more foam-like than I anticipated. It seems as though the Plasti-dip reacts oddly to Worbla.

Stay tuned when I try this experiment with Wood Glue.

I don't know if you'll be able to help with this but it's worth a shot. I'm cosplaying as Axel from Kingdom Hearts and I have everything but the chakrams. I started making them out of insulation foam but I don't know what to put on them to protect them from breaking. I have a low budget as well so it's harder to buy expensive resins.
projectcosplay projectcosplay Said:

You can do many things to cover it up. Unsure what your budget is but here are some cheaper alternatives:

  1. Plaster Wrap (~$7) + Wood filler / spackle (~$5 to $7) - Cover up the insulation foam with the plaster wrap and then use wood filler to fill in the gaps / holes. I’ve never used this method before but have seen good results.
  2. Paper Mache (~$3) + Paper Mache Paste (~$3) + SpackleThis is another method to cover up your insulation foam. I would personally recommend this method because I’ve tried something similar but you’re going to have to get the hang of making the paste really smooth.

Regardless if you use method 1 or 2, you will still need to sand. I recommend starting off at a low grit # like 80  and then working up (120, 150). Sanding will make the difference so keep sanding away!

EDIT: Correction, you work your way up to finer sandpaper, not down. Sorry OP, my morning caffeine had not kicked in yet. Thanks derisamich for the catch!

Anyhow, good luck!