Project Cosplay

Project Cosplay

This blog is about the behind-the-scenes aspect of the hobby. The process that makes it happen, tips, tutorials, memorable quotes, and the little moments that make it all worthwhile. Brought to you by mods (Xaynie & ElfGrove) and our cosplaying cohorts.

Common Tags

Posts tagged "cosplay"

minimortem asked:

I wish I could submit a picture to you so you don’t have to image search or anything, but I’m doing Police Officer Stocking from Panty & Stocking w/ Garterbelt and she has these weird strap thins on both her arms. I have no idea what they are! I have no idea how to make them either. I’d really appreciate your help :)

I pulled up some reference pictures from Google. I hope these are right as I’m unfamiliar with the show.

Non-specific details like this from a show actually work in your favor as a cosplayer, because without canon definition, those things on her arms are whatever you want them to be.

You can take some jewelry arm cuffs and make them black. You could size down some thin black belts to fit. You can sew together fabric of your choice, turn it inside-out and stiffen by inserting craft foam to make a simple strip, size it to your arms, and make it either a circle or close it with a snap, buckle, or velcro. You could cut black craft foam (or black elastic) and fasten it closed with the same methods as fabric. Really, it’s whatever is easiest on and looks best to you. I note that the reference pictures appear to have a silver detail. This can be a buckle, a dab of paint, or a silver jewelry finding from a craft store glued on.

To wear this item, you should be able to just slide it up your arm. You may want to use foam mounting tape or fashion tape to secure it in place and avoid sliding.

Asker Anonymous Asks:
is there any way for someone who cant grow facial hair to get realistic looking stubble or scruffy facial hair on?
projectcosplay projectcosplay Said:

Hi! There’s actually a couple of methods available to you.

There are a variety of pre-made facial hair (both beards and sideburns) appliances out in the world that can be applied with spirit gum pretty much straight out of the package. They’re often sold at higher end costuming shops and wig retailers. I’ve never had need to shop for them myself, so I  cannot recommend a particular shop, but a quick Google search turned up this catalog just to give you an idea of some of the variety that’s out there: [link] (Please shop around to find the best deal.)

On a more DIY (and potentially cheaper) route, we’ve previously reblogged this tutorial [link] on using crepe hair to make a beard or stubble.

Additionally, there are a few purely make-up routes for getting the stubble effect. I like these tutorials:


Sailor Fuku Cosplay Tutorial by ~SparklePipsi

An amazing tutorial on how to make your very own Sailor Senshi/Fuku Cosplay! Had a hard time finding really descriptive youtube tutorials surprisingly. So had to find step by step images! 

If you still need to visually see how to make a pleaded skirt here’s a youtube link to How To Cosplay: Make A Pleated Skirt! Though she doesn’t use actually cloth in the tutorial she uses paper - I think it’s pretty useful. 

In celebration of Sailor Moon Crystal, we know there will be many Moonie cosplayers out there who will need this. This is one of the most comprehensive tutorial to date. Good luck everyone!

(via cosplayresearch)


Most of my wigs require trimming and shaping of some kind. I hang onto the clipping to make curls/ahoge. I don’t like using a lot of product to get the ahoge look and find this method is a good alternative. As you can see in the photos the glue at the base of the curl is never visible. It is also super easy to take out if you need to use your wig for a costume that doesn’t require a curl.

Note: the curl used to make this tutorial is slightly larger then the one used in both the cosplay pictures and the finale picture. This was so it showed up better in the photos. 

(via youcancosplay21)


Ever have trouble finding boots in the right color? Tried spray-painting them and ended up with a dry, cracked mess?

A fantastic friend recently advised me to paint leather boots (and any other leather goods) with floral paint. This is a spray paint that is light and flexible enough to use on live flowers. Above are the Poison Ivy boots I painted for a friend, which turned out fantastic.

One thing though: Wear them while you paint them, and maybe stretch your foot around in between coats. I didn’t think of this, and while the paint did not crack at all, it started to split where the boots were stretched from walking. Next time I paint some boots, I’ll let you know if I was able to fix this problem.

The paint I used is called Design Master, and you can find it at Michael’s or Joann Fabrics. In the stores near me, Michael’s had a better selection of colors and a slightly better price, but that may not be true everywhere. This color is “Holiday Green.”

Great job motherofcosplay! We’ve mentioned it before in our Cosplay Tip #002: Use Floral Spray for Shoe Dying. This is an example of what it looks like using this method- it turned out fantastic, don’t you think?



Just read cosplay instructions that involved more steps of sanding, filling, sanding, and painting than a museum quality body off, frame auto restoration. O_o

True story: I was recommended tools and taught the proper use of said tools by a cosplayer.

That shit is hardcore, man.


I’ve had a lot of people ask me about the Worbla smoothing process I used on the King Loki build. To simplify explaining things I created this handy infographic. This is just one of many ways to achieve super smooth Worbla. After a lot of testing this is the process I came up with to satisfy my goal for the project. For average builds it’s probably too much work but I hope it may be helpful to some. - coregeek

Another way to smooth Worbla! Thanks for the submission, coregeeknet!

As a follow up to our Making Worbla Smooth Experiment, here is the detailed write-up regarding the methods used in that experiment.

Making Worbla Smooth

There are many methods for making Worbla smooth so I decided to do a test run myself based on the primary methods others have used. The three main ways of covering Worbla have been using Gesso, Plasti-Dip, or Wood Glue. This experiment only covers Gesso with Mod Podge acrylic sealer or Gesso with Plasti-dip. I didn’t have Wood Glue available during the time of conducting the test so there will be another part to this series that will include a comparison using Wood Glue.


I used 8 layers of Golden Sandable Hard Gesso and 150 Grit Sandpaper. I prefer this Gesso over any clear Gesso as you can actually see the streaks so that when you sand it, you can see the Worbla getting smoother (pictures 3 & 4).  In addition, the sandable Gesso has additives that makes it thicker so that you don’t have to do as many layers or as much sanding to make it look good. Yay for that!

You’ll notice I didn’t do a good enough job of sanding so you can still see some streaks in the forth image. If I were to do this again, I would do 6 layers, sand with 150 grit, and then add another 4 layers, then sand again with 150 grit to get a smoother finish (instead of just 8 layers straight). I tried sanding only 4 layers in and unfortunately, I exposed the Worbla, so 6 layers of Gesso is the very minimum in guarding against Worbla exposure. Also, it’s very important that each layer of Gesso dries completely before you put on the next. Otherwise, if you start sanding, the Gesso will chip and take, along with it, all the layers underneath. In picture 4, you will notice this happened on the edges of the Gesso which is why the Worbla is exposed there.


Picture one (left) shows the top piece which is Worbla painted without any additional work. The bottom piece is 8 layers of Gesso, sandpaper, one layer of Mod Podge acrylic sealant, and then one layer of Gold Metallic Paint.

Picture two (right) shows the top piece which is Worbla painted without any additional work. The bottom piece shows Worbla with 8 layers of Gesso, sandpaper, 2 layers of Plasti-Dip, and one layer of Gold Metallic Paint (Rustoleum brand).

Conclusion: I was surprised that the piece with the Mod Podge sealant looks smoother than the one with the Plasti-dip! I think the Plasti-dip made the items look more foam-like than I anticipated. It seems as though the Plasti-dip reacts oddly to Worbla.

Stay tuned when I try this experiment with Wood Glue.

I don't know if you'll be able to help with this but it's worth a shot. I'm cosplaying as Axel from Kingdom Hearts and I have everything but the chakrams. I started making them out of insulation foam but I don't know what to put on them to protect them from breaking. I have a low budget as well so it's harder to buy expensive resins.
projectcosplay projectcosplay Said:

You can do many things to cover it up. Unsure what your budget is but here are some cheaper alternatives:

  1. Plaster Wrap (~$7) + Wood filler / spackle (~$5 to $7) - Cover up the insulation foam with the plaster wrap and then use wood filler to fill in the gaps / holes. I’ve never used this method before but have seen good results.
  2. Paper Mache (~$3) + Paper Mache Paste (~$3) + SpackleThis is another method to cover up your insulation foam. I would personally recommend this method because I’ve tried something similar but you’re going to have to get the hang of making the paste really smooth.

Regardless if you use method 1 or 2, you will still need to sand. I recommend starting off at a low grit # like 80  and then working up (120, 150). Sanding will make the difference so keep sanding away!

EDIT: Correction, you work your way up to finer sandpaper, not down. Sorry OP, my morning caffeine had not kicked in yet. Thanks derisamich for the catch!

Anyhow, good luck!



Mechanical Steampunk Arm made for Gaslight Gathering. I used the automail designs for inspiration. While it looks gold in the pictures due to the reflection, in person it looks copper similar to the materials picture.

Method: Copper Spandex over craft foam using this process. My advice is to coat only the craft foam, not the fabric as it makes it wrinkle and pucker so stretching it over the foam is a pain. Also, use metal spatulas and wipe them often because cleaning the glue gunk from them is almost impossible.