Project Cosplay

Project Cosplay

This blog is about the behind-the-scenes aspect of the hobby. The process that makes it happen, tips, tutorials, memorable quotes, and the little moments that make it all worthwhile. Brought to you by mods (Xaynie & ElfGrove) and our cosplaying cohorts.

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problematize:

"As you can see, I made the costume more modest than the design, omitting the cut out in the front of the bodice, and adding a sheer layer in the skirt. I think it still reflects the character and represents the detailed game design. Don’t ever be afraid to modify a costume if you don’t feel comfortable wearing it. We cosplay for many reasons, the main one being love for a character. Replicating costumes 100% of only one facade of cosplay, it often is more challenging, fun and creative to translate a design from a rendered source to a working fitted garment, and it’s perfectly ok to take artistic license. I see a lot of cosplays being more sexualized than their designs, and I think it’s totally cool to modesty-fy a costume as well.”

- Yaya Han (x) (emphasis mine)

Having fun should, I hope, be the first priority of your cosplay. Part of having fun is being confident in and comfortable with how you look. Cosplay is a big confidence booster for a lot of us, and if modifying a costume to be more modest to suit your comfort levels is what helps you to reach that goal of confidence and having fun? Do it. More power to you.

(via oliviasatelier)

gillykins:

cosplaytutorial:

For those who are planning to start sewing their own cosplays this year this might be helpful: How to take measurements!

Waist Front / Waist Back:
http://www.sempstress.org/measurement/measuring-the-waist-frontback-waist/

How to Take Measurements:
http://makinglatexclothing.com/2008/12/how-to-take-measurements/

Instructions for Taking Measurements:
http://mangakaresource.weebly.com/1/post/2011/01/sewing-measurements.html

SUPER HELPFUL

(via twinklebat)

Asker Anonymous Asks:
Hello! Um you see Im cosplaying as Syo Kurusu from Uta prince no sama soon but theres this small little detail I have to take care of and Idk how. Syo doesnt have boobs. What can I do to make myself flat chested for a male character? I'm a b cup so..
projectcosplay projectcosplay Said:

Aww. I love Syo. I’ve cosplayed a version of him myself! He’s going to be a bit easier than some options out there specifically because he is pretty covered up and likes to wear layers most of the time. His tendency towards jackets and open vests help to disguise your natural curves and thusly does not require you to bind as tightly!

The main thing to remember with binding for crossplay is to remain aware of your comfort level. Many binding methods aren’t really meant to be worn for much more than a couple of hours at a time (let’s say 4 max). Binding methods that are safer for longer amounts of time still tend to max out most people’s safety and comfort range around 8 or 9 hours. If you start hurting or are having difficulty breathing, it is time to take the binder off. No ifs, ands, or buts. Everyone who matters would much rather see you doing a female version of a male cosplay than in pain or passing out. Never bind for more than 8-12 hours even with a high quality binding method.

Methods are below the cut.

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This is a quick tip regarding how to start sizing your props: Use the character’s body in reference to the prop and project it onto yours for relatively accurate sizing. Read below for more info.

1) Find reference photos and decide which version you are going to use. I’m currently working on Claves for Eternal Sonata. Here are two reference photos.

image

Notice in one photo, the rapier is much longer than the other? Yep, often times you’ll find reference photos are not consistent. What should you consider when deciding between which version? The first question is how will you be transporting this weapon? If you are taking it in a car then you can make it as big as you can stuff into your car. If you have to stuff your prop into a suitcase then you will have to think about how you are going to break it down for transporting. The second question is which can I accomplish based on my skill level? A few months ago, I did not know how to make props that broke down so if I were a few months back, I probably would have decided to use the shorter version. But since I’m challenging myself to make sure my weapons always break down, I have decided to go with the reference photo with the longer rapier. Also, the shorter one looks like a magician’s poking stick and rapiers on average are 39” long.

2) Estimate how big it is in relation to the character. For the version I am using, her rapier, if turned completely vertical (I did this using photoshop or you can just eye it), would be about the length of her waist to the floor.

3) Measure your body based on that estimation. I measured my floor to waist length and coincidentally it’s exactly 39”. So I will make my rapier about a meter long.

There you go, simple right? You can do this for anything- wigs, gauntlets, small props, accessories, weapons, 3D Maneuver Gear, etc. Use the character’s body in reference to the prop and project it onto yours for relatively accurate sizing.

Hello :) I'm making an Elsa cosplay from Frozen but with the wig I want to know what is the best way for styling the fringe? I was thinking gel and a whole heap of hair spray but I don't want it to get clumpy.
projectcosplay projectcosplay Said:

I think all you’ll need is hairspray, a blow dryer, and a small curling iron to get her crown / fringe looking good.

supernovadobe created a pretty good video tutorial here: http://supernovadobe.tumblr.com/post/72032925862/elsa-frozen-wig-tutorial-here-elsa-wig (the link is directly below the banner).

At point 4:10 you’ll see how she makes the widow’s peak. At the 10:00 minute mark you’ll start seeing how the rest of the crown is styled. I hope that helps!

feytaline:

Aw snap it’s time for another round of Cosplay Basics, or, Stuff You Probably Already Know!

I am not particularly good at wigs.  There’s something about them that seems to have a personal vendetta against me.  Although I styled almost all of my own wigs in the past few years, I’ve gone back to commissioning simply for ease.  There’s no point in getting stressed out over something I don’t like doing, and don’t feel like I have a talent for!

But even if you’re not getting into any major wig styling, there are a few basic things that you should have on hand!

1) The first thing you’ll need is a wig brush, or comb.  Everyone has their preferences, my favorite is a wire wig brush like the one pictured.  You can actually get this kind in the dog care section.  Mine’s lasted years and I have no complaints about it. 

Combs are something a lot of people prefer, and I use for small touch ups like fixing bangs. 

The only thing you want to avoid are soft plastic or bristled brushes.  They create a lot of static, and that’s a major cause of tangles.

2) Not pictured is a foam wig head.  These are crucial for detangling as well as styling any parts that you can’t do while wearing the wig.  However, they are smaller than the average head, so it’s recommended to not do any tight styling on this.

To hold your wig in place while you work, quilter’s pins are great.  They don’t have any edges for the wig to tangle on, they’re long, and they’re colorful so you don’t accidentally leave any in your wig when you take it off the foam head.  Not that I have ever… done that… I hear it’s really painful….


3) The third thing is probably the best invention ever.  It’s a razor comb!  Razor combs are phenomenal for getting a nice edge on your wig, rather than the blunt cut scissors can give unless you know how to use them properly.  It’s also almost impossible to hurt yourself while combing.  All you have to do is comb, and the razor slices the hair off!  They’re great for bangs in particular.

While you can get disposable combs at places like Sally’s Beauty Supply, they’re a tad expensive and go dull fast. However, a razor comb with replaceable blades, like this, only ran me $3 for the comb itself, and $10.00 for 100 blades (4) , on ebay.

5) Use big clips to hold the hair out of the way while you style.

6) And finally, we have a wig stand for foam heads.  This fits on the edge of a table or shelf (you screw it in to tighten it.)   However, I much prefer to use a free stand—I found that my dressform’s stand works wonderfully.  That way, you don’t have to worry about bumping against the table or shelf while you’re working!

So maybe you learned something, maybe you didn’t.  Feel free to add any of your own advice in reblogs!

I would add:

  • small, sharp scissors in case you want to cut big chunks of hair ( the razor comb might take too long)
  • foam curlers if you will be creating curls
  • hair spray to set the styles

Completely forgot to upload armor or progress pics for my latest cosplay debuted at Anime Los Angeles 2014. She’s Cynthia, a pegasus knight, from Fire Emblem: Awakening. Any FE fans out there?

Breastplate: Mostly worbla with gesso. Some parts had styrene

Gauntlets: Long pleather glove and styrene

Shoulder pauldrons & elbows: Worbla & styrene

Shoes: pleather & thigh high tights

Lance: PVC pipe with couplers and Worbla

Cynthia reference photo source.

capnnugget:

/This is mainly aimed for cosplayers, but you obviously don’t need to be a cosplayer to find this helpful/

When shopping for fabrics, you can get that a lot look very similar in the same color, and you don’t know which is best. When buying any fabric, it’s an amazing habit to…

When shopping for fabrics, always do a flash/no flash test!

Worbla Tests - Making Worbla Smooth

We did some testing with Worbla, Gesso, Mod Podge Spray Sealer, and Plasti-Dip.

(a more detailed post on method will come shortly)

In your opinion, which yielded best results? A or B?